Culinary Guides

This fresh cheese takes almost no effort and just three ingredients. You drain plain yogurt overnight until it thickens, then fold in fresh tarragon and a little salt. Spread it on a toasted bagel or spoon it over grilled meats and you have something that tastes far fancier than it is.

Ingredients

• 1/2 of a 32-ounce carton of plain yogurt or plain goat's milk yogurt*
• 1 tablespoon finely snipped fresh tarragon
• 1/8 teaspoon salt

Directions

1. Line a strainer or sieve with cheesecloth and set it over a bowl to catch the liquid. Spoon in the yogurt.
2. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate 24 hours so the liquid drains and the yogurt firms up like a soft cheese. Discard the drained liquid.
3. Transfer the drained yogurt to a clean bowl. Stir in the snipped tarragon and salt until evenly combined.
4. Store in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
5. Serve on grilled chicken, lamb, or fish, or spread on a toasted bagel or slice of bread.

For a firmer cheese, drain the yogurt up to 48 hours. Dill, chives, or parsley work in place of tarragon if you want a different flavor. *Goat milk yogurt gives a slightly tangier result and works for anyone who prefers it.

Grower's tip: The kind you can start from seed is Russian tarragon, which grows quickly and easily. Snip sprigs from the tips before the plant flowers, when the anise flavor is at its strongest, and keep cutting to keep it tender and bushy.

This spread is a good excuse to keep soft herbs by the door. Grow a little tarragon, plus some chives and dill to change it up batch to batch.