Culinary Guides

Everything here cooks in one pan, which is exactly why we reach for it on busy nights. We like a hearty, large leaved spinach that holds its shape in a hot skillet, and a few big handfuls wilt right down into bacon fat, mushrooms, and a splash of white wine. It eats like a meal on its own, and with a couple of poached eggs on top it turns into breakfast.

Ingredients

• 2 slices thick cut bacon, chopped into bite size pieces
• 1 large shallot, finely chopped
• 1 pound wild mushrooms (or a mix of your favorite mushrooms), cut into large dice
• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
• 1/4 cup white wine
• 1 1/2 pounds spinach (about 5 cups)
• 1 teaspoon lemon zest
• Salt and pepper to taste

Directions

1. Fry the chopped bacon in a large heavy pan over medium high heat until lightly crispy. Lift it out with a slotted spoon onto a paper towel, leaving the grease in the pan.
2. Add the shallot to the bacon grease and cook over medium heat about 2 minutes, until it softens.
3. Add the diced mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, about 3 minutes, until they release their moisture and begin to brown.
4. Stir in the garlic and red pepper flakes and cook about 1 minute, until fragrant, being careful not to burn the garlic.
5. Pour in the white wine to deglaze, scraping up the browned bits, and cook until most of the liquid evaporates, 2 to 3 minutes.
6. Add the spinach in batches, tossing with tongs, until all of it is wilted and tender, about 3 minutes.
7. Return the bacon to the pan, add the lemon zest, season with salt and pepper, and toss to combine.
8. Serve warm as a side, over lemon parmesan pasta, or with poached eggs on top.

Any mix of mushrooms works here, so use cremini, shiitake, or oyster if you cannot find wild ones. No wine on hand? A splash of chicken or vegetable broth deglazes the pan just as well.

Grower's tip: spinach bolts fast once the days lengthen and the heat comes on, and the leaves turn bitter when it does. Sow it in the cool weather of early spring and again in fall, and pick the outer leaves often to keep the plants pumping out new growth. Big, hearty types stand up best to a hot pan.

This is a garden dish at heart. Grow a row of spinach for the skillet, and keep Swiss chard and kale going alongside it so you always have a hearty green ready to saute.