Culinary Guides

When beefsteak tomatoes are at their peak, the best thing to do is barely touch them. This salad peels and slices them, seasons them simply, and piles on peppery arugula. The clever part is frying the reserved skins into crisp, almost bacon-like curls to scatter on top.

Ingredients

• 2 1/2 pounds beefsteak tomatoes in assorted colors (about 4 large)
• 5 tablespoons olive oil, divided
• 3/8 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 cups baby arugula

Directions

Prep the tomatoes

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Core the tomatoes and discard the cores.
2. Blanch the tomatoes about 15 seconds, then plunge into ice water.
3. Peel off the skins and set them aside. Slice the peeled tomatoes 1/2-inch thick and arrange on a large platter.

Fry the skins

1. Heat the oven to about 200F to keep the skins warm. Heat 1/4 cup olive oil in a small skillet over medium-high heat.
2. Fry the skins in two batches, about 2 minutes each, until crisp and lightly browned. Drain on paper towels and sprinkle with 1/8 teaspoon kosher salt. Keep warm.

Assemble

1. Drizzle the sliced tomatoes with 1 tablespoon olive oil and season with the remaining 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt and the black pepper.
2. Scatter the arugula over the tomatoes, top with the crispy skins, and serve right away.

Grower's tip: Beefsteaks are worth growing for a dish like this, and they are best left to ripen fully on the vine. Pick them when they give slightly to a gentle squeeze and smell sweet at the stem; a vine-ripened beefsteak has a flavor you will never find in a shipped tomato.

You can blanch, peel, and slice the tomatoes a few hours ahead, but fry the skins just before serving so they stay crisp.

A couple of beefsteak tomato plants and a patch of arugula will give you this salad all summer long.