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By Maxim Kaufman — Founder & CEO, Organo Republic
Updated July 2026
Broccoli is one of the most rewarding cool-season crops you can grow, and homegrown heads are noticeably sweeter than anything at the store. This guide walks you through how to grow broccoli from seed, from starting seedlings indoors to timing the crop around heat, spacing plants, and cutting tight central heads followed by weeks of side shoots.
Best tip
Grow broccoli as a fall crop. Start seeds in mid to late summer so the heads fill out as the weather turns cool, and you sidestep the spring race against heat and the flush of cabbage worms. Fall broccoli tends to make bigger, sweeter, tighter heads with far less fuss.
Broccoli is a cool-season crop that heads up best in mild weather, so most gardeners start it indoors and transplant. For a spring crop, sow seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before your last frost, then set the seedlings out 2 to 3 weeks before that last frost, since young plants shrug off light frost. For a fall crop, which is often the sweeter and easier one, start seeds in mid to late summer so the heads mature as the weather cools.
Sow broccoli seeds a quarter inch deep in cell trays or small pots of moist seed-starting mix, two seeds per cell, and keep them around 70 to 75F. Seedlings usually appear in 5 to 10 days; thin to the strongest one per cell. Harden them off for a week, then transplant into rich, firm soil in full sun, spacing plants 18 inches apart in rows 24 to 36 inches apart. You can direct-sow in mild climates, but transplants give more reliable heads.

Broccoli is a hungry, thirsty plant. Give it steady moisture, about 1 to 1.5 inches of water a week, and feed with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer a few weeks after transplanting to push leafy growth. Firm soil and even watering help form tight heads. Watch for cabbage worms and aphids, the usual brassica pests, and pick worms off by hand or cover young plants with row cover. In hot regions like the South or interior California, grow broccoli as a fall and winter crop, since summer heat above the mid-80s makes heads open into loose yellow flowers early; in the North, both a spring and a fall planting work well.
Broccoli grows well beside plants that repel or distract its main pests, the cabbage worm and flea beetle. These four make especially good neighbors in a brassica bed, and you can add any of them in one click:
Heat makes broccoli bolt. When temperatures climb into the upper 80s, or a spring crop gets caught by a heat wave, the plant sends up flowers instead of forming a tight head, and any head that did form opens into loose yellow buds. Grow broccoli in the cool ends of the season and lean on a fall crop in warm climates.
Cut the central head while the buds are still tight and green, before any yellow flowers show, slicing the stem about 5 to 6 inches below the head. Harvest in the cool of the morning. After you take the main head, leave the plant in the ground and keep watering: most varieties push out smaller side shoots for weeks, giving you a steady second harvest of bite-sized florets.
Eat broccoli raw with dip, or steam it just until bright green and still crisp, roughly 4 to 5 minutes, so it keeps its color and bite. Roasting at high heat gives crisp, browned edges. The tender stalks are good too, peeled and sliced. Homegrown broccoli is sweeter than store-bought, and the leaves and side shoots are all edible, so little goes to waste.

How long does broccoli take to grow from seed?
Most broccoli takes 70 to 100 days from sowing to a full head. If you start seeds indoors and transplant, plan on about 3 to 4 weeks in the tray, then roughly 50 to 65 days in the garden until the central head is ready to cut.
Does broccoli grow back after you cut the head?
The main central head does not regrow, but the plant does not quit. Leave it in the ground and keep watering, and most varieties push out smaller side shoots along the stem for several more weeks of bite-sized florets.
Why is my broccoli not forming a head?
Usually heat or stress. Broccoli forms tight heads in cool weather, so warm spells, dry soil, crowding, or a cold shock at transplant can make it flower early or make only tiny buttons. Grow it in the cool ends of the season, keep it fed and watered, and favor a fall crop in warm climates.
Can you grow broccoli in containers?
Yes. Use a pot at least 12 to 16 inches wide and deep, one plant per pot, filled with rich potting mix. Keep it in full sun, water often since pots dry out fast, and feed regularly, since broccoli is a hungry crop.
How much sun does broccoli need?
Give broccoli full sun, at least 6 hours a day, for strong plants and tight heads. In hot regions a little afternoon shade in the warmest part of the season can slow bolting, but it still needs plenty of direct light overall.
When should I plant broccoli?
For a spring crop, start seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before your last frost and transplant 2 to 3 weeks before it. For a fall crop, which is often easier, start seeds in mid to late summer so the heads mature as the weather cools.
Ready to grow your own? Start with a packet of heirloom Waltham 29 broccoli seeds.
Want more than broccoli? These value sets all include broccoli seeds, plus many more vegetables:
By Maxim Kaufman — Founder & CEO, Organo Republic
Maxim founded Organo Republic in 2017 and personally selects, tests, and grows the heirloom, non-GMO varieties the company offers. Under his leadership, Organo Republic was named Agri Business Review’s Top Non-GMO Seed Variety Solution 2026.
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Lures aphids & squash bugs away from your crops
Improves neighbors' flavor, deters hornworms
Attracts ladybugs & lacewings that eat aphids
Attracts hoverflies, boosts neighbors' vigor
Draws pollinators, repels moths & deer
Draws pollinators, doubles as a living trellis
Attracts butterflies, bees & ladybugs
Traps aphids, feeds beneficial insects
Brings bees, hoverflies & parasitic wasps
Its blooms feed aphid-eating hoverflies
Repels cabbage moths & carrot flies
Aromatic pest shield for veggies & vines
Draws parasitic wasps that hunt pests
Repels aphids, squash bugs & flea beetles
Ladybug & hoverfly hub for the whole bed
Keeps pollinators coming all season
Trap crop for flea beetles, protects your vines
Feeds roots for stronger, faster-growing plants
Bee balm that pulls in bees & hummingbirds
Citrus-scented bee magnet for fruiting crops
Lacy blooms that draw predatory wasps