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By Maxim Kaufman — Founder & CEO, Organo Republic
Updated July 2026
Collards are one of the most forgiving and generous greens you can grow, and a single planting can hand you tender leaves for months. This guide covers how to grow collards from seed, from direct sowing and thinning to the cut-and-come-again harvest. They are very cold hardy, so they shrug off frost, and a cold snap actually sweetens the leaves. Give them rich soil and a little water and they will keep producing right through fall and into winter in mild regions.
Best tip
Plant a fresh patch of collards in late summer and let it run into winter. The leaves you pick after the first few frosts are far sweeter and more tender than summer collards, and in most climates a mulched plant keeps handing you greens long after the rest of the garden has quit.
Collards are a hardy cool-season green that grow best at the cool ends of the year. Sow in early spring, two to four weeks before your last frost, once the soil hits about 45F, for a spring and early summer crop. Then sow again in mid to late summer, roughly 6 to 8 weeks before your first fall frost, for the sweetest harvest of all. In the South and other mild-winter regions, collards are a classic fall and winter crop that can stand in the garden right through the cold.
Collards are easy from seed and do not mind being direct-sown. Sow the small round seeds a quarter to half an inch deep in rich, well-drained soil in full sun, keep the bed evenly moist, and expect sprouts in 5 to 10 days. Thin or transplant seedlings to 18 to 24 inches apart so each plant can reach full size, and eat the thinnings as baby greens. You can also start seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before your last spring frost and transplant them out once they have a few true leaves.

Collards are low-maintenance once established. Give them about an inch to an inch and a half of water a week to keep the leaves tender, and side-dress with a nitrogen feed every few weeks for fast, leafy growth. Watch for cabbage worms, aphids, and flea beetles, and use a lightweight row cover or a strong spray of water to keep them in check. In hot regions like Texas and the Deep South, grow collards mainly as a fall, winter, and early spring crop, since midsummer heat toughens the leaves; in cool-summer areas like the Pacific Northwest they can produce for much of the year.
Collards grow well beside plants that pull pests away and bring in helpful insects. These three make especially good neighbors, and you can add any of them in one click:
Heat and cabbage worms are the main things to watch. Summer heat turns collard leaves tough and bitter, so lean on spring and fall crops and give plants afternoon shade in warm spells. The velvety green caterpillars of cabbage white moths can quickly riddle the leaves, so check the undersides often and use a row cover on young plants. Frost, on the other hand, is a friend here and only makes the leaves sweeter.
Start picking once the plant has several full-size leaves, usually around 60 to 75 days from sowing. Take the oldest, lowest leaves first by snapping them off near the stem, and always leave the central growing point and a few young leaves so the plant keeps going. Harvest a few leaves at a time, cut-and-come-again, and a single planting will feed you for months. For the best flavor, pick after the first light frosts of fall.
Collards are a Southern kitchen staple and a workhorse green. Slow-braise them with a little onion and stock for classic collard greens, add chopped leaves to soups, beans, and stir-fries, or use large raw leaves as a sturdy wrap in place of a tortilla. Strip out the tough central rib before cooking, and use frost-sweetened winter leaves for the mildest, sweetest flavor.

How long do collards take to grow from seed?
You can start picking baby leaves in about 40 days, and full-size plants are ready around 60 to 75 days from sowing. Because collards are cut-and-come-again, one planting keeps producing for months.
Are collards annual or perennial?
Collards are technically a biennial, but most gardeners grow them as an annual and replant each season. In mild-winter regions a plant can survive the winter and keep producing well into a second year.
Can collards survive frost?
Yes, and frost actually improves them. Collards are very cold hardy and tolerate temperatures down into the low 20s F. A light frost converts starches to sugars, so the leaves taste noticeably sweeter after a cold snap.
How do you harvest collards so they keep growing?
Pick the oldest, lowest leaves first by snapping them off near the stem, and always leave the central growing point and a few young leaves in place. The plant keeps pushing new leaves from the top, so you can harvest a few at a time for months.
How far apart should you space collard plants?
Thin or transplant collards to about 18 to 24 inches apart so each plant has room to reach full size. If you only want tender baby leaves, you can grow them closer, around 6 to 10 inches, and harvest young.
Should you direct sow collards or start them indoors?
Both work. Direct sowing is easy and avoids transplant shock, especially for a fall crop. For an early spring start, sow indoors 4 to 6 weeks before your last frost and transplant out once seedlings have a few true leaves.
Ready to grow your own? Start with a packet of heirloom, non-GMO collard seeds, a hardy, generous green that just gets sweeter as the weather cools.
Want more than collards? These value sets all include collard seeds, plus many more greens and veggies:
By Maxim Kaufman — Founder & CEO, Organo Republic
Maxim founded Organo Republic in 2017 and personally selects, tests, and grows the heirloom, non-GMO varieties the company offers. Under his leadership, Organo Republic was named Agri Business Review’s Top Non-GMO Seed Variety Solution 2026.
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